"25 Years Dossier" continued: 2003, the pivotal year!

Things were never quite the same after 2003. Many winemakers remember the scorching summer and the harvest that began in August (something that had never happened in the 20th century); for many, 2003 was the first truly significant, not to say spectacular, step in the climate change that now shapes the lives of the vineyards of Burgundy and the... Beaujolais By changing working habits and, to some extent, the style of the wines as well. Testimonials published in issue 149 of Bourgogne Aujourd'hui, a special "25 years" edition…

Aubert de Villaine (Co-manager of domaine de la Romanée- Conti and special editor of the "25 years" issue of Bourgogne Aujourd'hui) We will adapt!

“A scientific work to which Thomas Labbé, a researcher from the University of, actively contributed.” Dijon who had worked with us on the World Heritage application, goes back to the harvest dates since the 14th century and shows that since 1988, we have entered a cycle where "hot" vintages have followed one another at an unprecedented pace. Most recently: 2015, 2018, 2019… For now, we can only be pleased with this climate, which ensures high ripeness much more often than before, when we only exceptionally experienced a "great year." But for us winemakers, there are also multiple consequences, existing dangers, and the need to find ways to adapt. Not so long ago, we prioritized selecting certain types of Pinot Noir or Pinot Noir. chardonnay early-maturing varieties. Today, it's crucial not to overlook later-maturing varieties, which could prove invaluable. Rootstocks, which also play a significant role, will also need attention. Cultivation methods need reassessment, as do vine trellising, the nature and application of treatments… and other practices will surely emerge. vinification The risks of Brettanomyces proliferation are tenfold. Attention to hygiene must therefore be tenfold as well. The decrease in acidity linked to the climate is widespread, and it is important to find natural ways to compensate for it. This is a major undertaking. We are starting from scratch, but this is not new. Here in Burgundy, the difficulty is recurring, ever-present. We will adapt, and the vines, if we respect them, will help us do so.

Vincent Dureuil (winemaker in Rully ): Managing sulfur and adapting pruning

"If we consider the entire growing cycle, 2003 remains the hottest vintage we have ever experienced. It was 39°C at Rully July 14th, and 42°C on August 5th! From a winemaking perspective, I remember it as an extremely difficult year. The vines grew at an incredible rate. We started the harvest on September 1st, which was late for the year. Meix Dadot old vines (Editor's note: rully blanc The 1er cru wines had an alcohol content of 14.5%, and most of the grapes were harvested at around 14%. Fortunately, we already had temperature control equipment and were able to cool the harvest immediately. In the cellar, I didn't change my practices at all: I didn't add tartaric acid (Editor's note: acidify the must by adding tartaric acid), and I didn't give in to the trend of shortening aging periods. The older they get, the less my 2003s seem marked by the sunny character of that year. The terroir always ends up taking over… » The Côte winemaker Chalonnaise He emphasizes the need to adapt vine pruning and sulfur use: "I significantly reduce sulfur doses during hot periods because it can burn the grapes. Hot summers are also increasingly accompanied by episodes of spring frost. This will require us to change our winter cultivation practices, in particular delaying pruning until after Saint Vincent's Day (Editor's note: end of January)."

Nadine Gublin (oenologist, Domaines Labruyère): A beneficial change

“In 2003, we were already well-equipped with refrigeration systems. This allowed us to chill the grapes and juices and vinify under optimal conditions. The harvest, which began on August 25th, was transported from the vineyard to the winery in refrigerated trucks, which we used again last year. Of course, we adjusted the harvest hours, starting early in the morning and finishing around 1 p.m., as well as the duration: we harvested in six days instead of the usual twelve. In hot years, we pay close attention to the timing of powdery mildew treatments. We treat early in the morning, when temperatures are cool. As for the winemaking process, it is carried out, regardless of the year, with the balance of the grapes in mind.” Nadine Gublin believes that, overall, the climate change observed since 2003 has benefited Burgundy: “Burgundy has never produced such good Pinot Noir as in the last decade…”

Christophe TUPINIER

Publishing Director