More than 30% of vineyard managers are now women (photo Bénédicte Manière).
Bourgogne Aujourd'hui
They paved the way
To mark the 25th anniversary of the Women and Wines of Burgundy association, we look back at the pivotal period that saw women in wine gradually emerge from obscurity into the spotlight. To illustrate this era, we highlight the journeys of twelve pioneering women whose personalities have shaped, and continue to shape, Burgundy's wine industry.
by
Clément Lhôte
THE
In an agricultural world historically dominated by men, the vine is no exception. "When my sister and I joined the domaine "In 1988, there were still cellars where women were not allowed!" testifies Marie-Andrée Mugneret, from Domaine Mugneret-Gibourg. It's paradoxical, considering that women have always been essential to the estates. "They have always worked in the vineyards, organized the life of the domaine She managed the accounting… but behind the scenes. The recognition went to her husband, who officially managed things. It's a situation "which we can still see today," testifies Virginie Taupenot, co-manager of the Domaine Taupenot-Merme and former president of the Women and Wines of Burgundy association.
The real surge in the number of women in key positions occurred in the 1980s, driven in particular by the pioneers presented in the following pages. This was a fundamental phenomenon linked to changing attitudes, but it was not without its challenges. "Our fathers could be harsh with us. A boy taking over the farm was normal. A woman, on the other hand, had to prove herself," explains Virginie Taupenot.
A mixed system… with two exceptions
Today, the feminization of leadership positions is widely accepted. According to Vin & Société, "one-third of oenologists, more than 30% of vineyard managers, and 50% of oenology students are now women." The exceptions? "The mechanical engineering and tractor sector, which is still largely male-dominated," explains Ludivine Griveau, manager of the Hospices de Beaune and the first woman in this position. "We are also underrepresented in professional bodies," notes Virginie Taupenot.
But for Ludivine Griveau, "today, the biggest barrier is between us and ourselves: it's the insidious feeling of not being legitimate. Certainly, this motivates us, leads us to greater demands. But now, we must tell ourselves once and for all: there is no casting error."
Women and Wines of Burgundy
An association "for sharing, not for making demands".
Founded in 2000 at the initiative of Anne Parent, the Women and Wines of Burgundy association aims to unite female winemakers and technicians. "It's not a feminist association, but a space for exchange," the winemaker from Pommard “We understand each other because we have the same problems, the same fears, and we find it easy to talk about them.” Christine Dubreuil, winemaker at Pernand-Vergelesses The current president of the association is pleased with its progress: "We now have forty members, and expect two to three more members in 2026. It is a pleasure to see daughters of long-standing members joining us."
Current members of Women and Wines of Burgundy.
The pioneers
Representing a changing era, these figures have inspired – and continue to inspire – Burgundy's wine industry. They have agreed to share their personal stories.
[Note: Our vineyardis full of talented female winemakers who would have richly deserved a place in this feature. However, in order to prioritize the quality and depth of each profile, we have chosen to limit our selection to twelve of them. Furthermore, the availability of some professionals did not always allow for an interview. This feature therefore does not claim to be exhaustive, but aims to reflect a beautiful diversity of career paths. Enjoy your reading.]
Laurence Jobard – Maison Joseph Drouhin ( Beaune )
The pioneer among pioneers
(Photo: Bénédicte Manière).
“We were two sisters, my parents didn’t have any sons to take over the vineyards… Their great despair!” As a young woman, Laurence Jobard quickly understood that the wine career she dreamed of would require a change of scenery. In the late 1960s, she put aside the domaine family of Pommard and contacts the oenology faculty of Dijon …which discouraged her. “I was told it was reserved for boys!” she recalls. It must be said that at the time, “women didn’t even dare go into a cellar, it was forbidden!” Another door closed… And Laurence Jobard went through the window: off to the biochemistry faculty. A subject she ended up teaching at the agricultural high school in Beaune "At that moment, I learned that the Maison Drouhin "Looking for someone to set up his analysis lab. I'm applying immediately." Robert Drouhin He recruited her; he quickly discovered her tasting talents. And gave her free rein. "Here I am, a young cellar master, managing a team of men!" the winemaker smiles. The year is 1976.
Two careers, two passing on of the torch.
And they clicked. “I was a woman they could talk to, who took the time to explain why they had to work this way and not another. It went very well. We quickly realized that a woman could very well manage the cellar.” Keen to establish her authority, Laurence Jobard had meanwhile earned her oenology degree. She became a pillar of the Maison Drouhin She also ended up taking care of the domaine family of Pommard with her sister Mireille. At the same time, she and her husband Roger are investing in Côte d'Ivoire. Chalonnaise Today, it is their daughter, Claudie, who makes the wine from the two combined plots. As for the Maison Drouhin A form of transmission also took place. “Véronique [ Drouhin , editor's note] came to the lab at a very young age to taste the wines, and ended up developing a passion for the profession. I supported her in her early days.” The doors of the cellars were closed to women in Burgundy. Laurence Jobard left them wide open.
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