THE domaine The Hospices are going organic!

Issue number 167 of Bourgogne Aujourd'hui, as always at this time of year, includes a feature on Beaune and the sale of wines from domaine of the Hospices. Find below the full article dedicated to the "news" of the domaine and in particular the organic certification of the 60 hectares of vines. The dossier also includes a "flashback" on the 2018 presidents' plays, a ranking of the best wine lists in Beaune restaurants, and the best "trendy" places to eat right now.

Ludivine Griveau, stage manager of the domaine Hospices of Beaune , in the middle of decanting a wine rouge of the 2022 vintage.

“The organic philosophy was already ingrained in our practices and was initiated by my predecessor, Mr. Masse,” recalls Ludivine Griveau-Gemma. “For 17 years, we have no longer used chemical inputs. Today, the 60 hectares of domaine are committed to the organic conversion, along with the 23 people who work the vines. Health and the environment were my two motivations for taking the plunge. Working for a hospital, the ethics of care have real meaning, and we must take our dedication as an example. I didn't do it sooner simply because I wasn't ready; it takes time and observation to see how the vines behave. We had to settle technical prerequisites and invest in equipment for the technicians. I also needed strong support from the teams, who had to adapt the vineyard and adopt new practices. Fredon and the Côte-d'Or Chamber of Agriculture were a great help to us.” After three years of conversion, as required by law, 2024 will be the first certified organic vintage at the Hospices. Since the wines are sold in barrels on the third Sunday of November, it will be up to the wine merchants and producers to decide whether or not to claim the organic label.

46 tanks compared to 16 in 2021

The arrival of organic products at domaine This shouldn't make us forget current events and the 2022 vintage, "which is truly breathtaking," smiles Ludivine Griveau-Gemma. "The winter was mild, with adequate rainfall. Once again, frost gave us a few scares, but nothing more. The vines grew well, with a healthy summer and timely periods of rain. The fruit set was very generous. The vines withstood the heat well, as if they had decided to produce very early on. The summer frightened us; it didn't frighten them. We started harvesting at Pouilly-Fuissé on August 25th, before starting on the 29th in Côte-d'Or. The harvest was the longest at Hospices in the last 20 years, with the last plot picked on September 16th. Everything wasn't ripe at the same rate, with staggered ripening times, but now I'm reassured about my harvest date choices. The white wines are dense, with beautiful balance and fruit. By the beginning of October, almost all the wines had completed their alcoholic fermentation. The aromatics are a little less exuberant than in 2021, with a somewhat serious, almost tannic character. We had good juice yields, but the grape skins were thick, which explains this feeling of robustness, a bit like in 2019. rouge We filled 46 vats, compared to 16 last year. Everything was destemmed, and maceration lasted 18 to 24 days. We used juicier berries, with 9 days of cold pre-fermentation maceration to extract aromas and color first, then tannins. Racking was completed on September 30th, allowing time for the production and blending of the cuvées. Two distinct wine profiles are emerging: some cuvées are more focused on sweetness and roundness, quite luscious and already appealing, while others are more powerful and concentrated, with thicker tannins. We didn't do anything special to achieve this; it's simply that the vintage won't be uniform. Our goal is balance, with deep colors and intense, clean aromatics. The alcohol levels are higher than expected in some vintages, sometimes reaching up to 14 degrees after the vinification "

Nearly 800 items for sale

While it's still too early to announce the exact number of barrels offered for sale on Sunday, November 20th, it will be higher than the 362 lots auctioned last year and is expected to be on the high end, closer to 800. As every year, the charity barrel, sold to benefit two associations (see box), will meet three fundamental criteria: "A great wine, a selection within a selection," explains Ludivine Griveau-Gemma. "A special container due to its technical specifications, its origin, or its history. All of this to house a unique barrel." While nothing is finalized at the time of writing, it seems that the domaine Hospices of Beaune will offer, on the occasion of the Wine Auction weekend, a unique tasting to the general public, with bottles from its personal reserve.

Texts: Elisabeth Ponavoy

Photography: Thierry Gaudillère

Princess Margot and World Vision are the beneficiaries of the charity piece.

This year, the cause of children was chosen, and two associations will share the proceeds from the sale of the charity play, one of the highlights of the event. Princesse Margot, founded in 2012 by Muriel Hattab, is dedicated to supporting children with cancer and helping families through the ordeal of the disease. The project undertaken by the association with the proceeds from the charity play is entitled "The maison "Parents" and is a continuation of its mission to support young patients and their families. World Vision, the second selected organization, is present wherever children suffer. Its mission is to help the most vulnerable, lift them out of extreme poverty, and empower them to live their lives to the fullest. Thanks to the proceeds from the sale of the charity piece, World Vision plans to invest in one of its priority projects, "Kenya Big Dream," which aims to combat female genital mutilation and child marriage.

Christophe TUPINIER

Publishing Director