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Rémi Genot - By the Bell Tower
Long-term weather forecasting remains a demonstrably inexact science, and the comparison between what we wrote on this site on August 25th and the situation we must observe today, after ten days without a cloud in the sky and temperatures that have easily exceeded 30 degrees Celsius in the shade, is very, very different from the "catastrophic" scenario that was looming. It is perfectly clear that in the vineyards where significant yield management was carried out throughout the growing season, and only in those vineyards , the grapes ripened well, gaining between 1.5 and 2 degrees Celsius, or even more, depending on the plot, according to reliable winemakers. This idyllic weather saved the vintage.
The sorting will be decisive in rouge
In pinot noir The grape harvest is underway in Côte de Beaune and in Côte Chalonnaise Since the middle of last week, with still many people in the vineyards this morning, and just beginning in Côte de Nuits and in the Yonne What was estimated at between 10 or 11 potential degrees two weeks ago is therefore approaching, or perhaps even exceeding here and there, 12.5/13°. So, after a rather mediocre summer, copiously rained, the skins of the grapes clearly do not have, in the opinion of the producers themselves, the same thickness as in the great recent vintages (2022, 2020, 2019, 2016, 2015), but after a good sorting (with percentages obviously very variable from one vineyard to another, depending on the plant material, the cultivation practices…) which will prove decisive of the unripe grapes, scorched or shriveled by the sun, affected by botrytis , or even geosmin, damaged by diseases (downy mildew, powdery mildew), hail… serious producers will make good, or even very good wines, which was therefore not at all a given on August 25. There is, however, a certain justice, and in a year as productive as 2023, with grapes of sometimes questionable size, those (many…) who “let nature take its course” will regret it. They will fill their cellars beyond reason, which was their goal, but with mediocre red wines; it's clear from a walk through the vineyards that many vines are at the end of their lifespan and quite incapable of properly ripening excessive yields.
I harvest when I want, new "season"
And what about the chardonnay A new episode of the "I harvest when I want" season of twists and turns has been broadcast live on social media for about two weeks; the first winemakers have begun cutting their bunches of grapes. chardonnay around August 28th, while some, the last ones, started yesterday. "Classic" stuff! Let's add that the debate mainly concerns the southern part of the Côte de Beaune , on Meursault the epicenter, Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet And Saint-Aubin "It's surprising, we're now harvesting before..." Pouilly-Fuissé which is, however, further south. "It might be linked to the higher yields there," a winemaker, surprised by this development, recently told us. We can easily confirm that, indeed, and especially since the arrival of the Premier Crus in Pouilly-Fuissé It would seem that the grape harvest there generally takes place later than in the Côte de Beaune But no, it's not related to yields, but simply to will (the ODG of Chassagne, Puligny and Meursault requested maximum yields of 64 hl/ha in 2023 village and 62 in premier cru whereas in Pouilly-Fuissé (that's 60 and 56…) and the requirement, moreover, stipulated in the specifications for Premier Cru vineyards, to produce ripe grapes (minimum 12 degrees). The dynamic is the same for the other crus in the area and the leading winemakers in the Mâcons and Viré-Clessé appellations. What to make of all this? Did some estates, and not the least important ones, harvest their Chardonnays too early, produced for the second consecutive year in generous quantities? In 2022, many winemakers "made wine" in the truest sense of the word, because it's probably easier to make a decent wine at 60 hl/ha in chardonnay than pinot noir . A blanc "Decent" wine, yes, but a Meursault A Puligny or a Chassagne? Not sure! Only the result counts, and we'll see, glass in hand, what the 2023s are like. Let's conclude on this subject by specifying that... Chablis And in the Mâconnais region, the grape harvest has been underway since the end of last week. This morning, Aurélie Cheveau, president of the appellation, Pouilly-Fuissé was delighted to harvest Chardonnays between 13 and 14 degrees, while at Chablis The average temperature of 12.5 to 13 degrees was perfect for Benoît. Droin …
Tastings
If the red wines of Jura While these things might have been amusing fifteen years ago, they are quite different today. Wines have changed considerably due to global warming coupled with a real awakening of awareness among winemakers, and the trousseau deserves to be seen now as a great grape variety rouge .
Tastings
Behind the slightly provocative name of this cuvée produced by Domaine Chasselay, an objective analysis of the situation even allows one to think that the Beaujolais is far from being six feet under and even has many tricks up its sleeve to come out on top in the current wine crisis.
Tastings
It's hard to imagine vintages more dissimilar than 2023 and 2024. But in the world-renowned Côte des Blancs, these two years, with their contrasting profiles, are generally of a good standard. Follow the guide.
