Crémant de Bourgogne: terroirs finally recognized!

Fifteen years! In 2026, it will be fifteen years since the UPECB (The Union of Crémant de Bourgogne Producers and Producers) began fighting for recognition by the National Institute of Origin Appellations (INAO) of the "lieux-dits" that form the basis of Burgundy wines' identity. Even though the French administration is not known for its speed, this delay is surprising: the "climats," listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2015, have been the basis of Burgundy's uniqueness since the dawn of time. Why should, what is true and recognized for still wines not be true for sparkling wines? Many Champagne producers, who are keen to promote the terroir of origin of their wines, opposed reciprocity for Burgundy crémants. For its part, the INAO played for time, with arguments that appear specious to say the least: risk of misappropriation of the reputation of still wines, risk of confusion for consumers, etc. Forgetting that there are many homonyms here, that there are numerous plots of Perrières a good dozen Clos Roy, which have never caused any confusion between a mercurey, a beaune or a corton wine.

Upgrading

Fortunately, this long period of negotiations and procrastination came to an end last September, when the INAO National Committee authorised the claim for the specific locations of the crémants. The application was due to be definitively approved on November 26, paving the way for inclusion in the specifications and publication in the Official Journal in early 2026.

What will this new opportunity mean for producers? Initially, probably not much: sparkling wines will continue to be based on the principle of blending (terroirs, grape varieties, vintages) and the use of specific place names will remain the exception. However, we can bet that, riding the wave of their commercial success—crémants are growing in all markets—and eager to continue their move upmarket, many producers will be tempted to label new prestige cuvées. This is already the case at Louis Bouillot, notably with its Chenovres, En Bollery and Dessus des Vermots cuvées, at Louis Picamelot with its Reipes, En Chazot and Espoutières cuvées, at the Cave de Lugny, at Dangin in the Châtillonnais, at Veuve Ambal, and the list goes on. The recognition of these lieux-dits will therefore contribute to the move upmarket of Crémants and their continued promotion on the markets. Almost always vintage, terroir cuvées are complex sparkling wines, sometimes suitable for long aging!

Photographs: Maison Picamelot

*Article written at the beginning of November

Jean Philippe Chapelon

Freelance Journalist