Micro-productions: the rise of "haute couture"

They're called "Ex Nihilo," "La Pierre Ronde," "Glandien," "Petit Roy," "Clair Obscur," "Laisse Tomber," "Le Grappin," and "Les Horées"... You may not know them, and yet: these wineries with their poetic names are thriving in Burgundy. What they have in common: very small productions, limited resources, no employees, a freedom from traditional vineyard practices, a strong commitment to organic and natural wines, a huge following on social media, and, finally, phenomenal export success. So much so that their bottles are rarely found in France.

This same vision of the profession, however, masks very different life paths. "There really are all kinds of profiles!" assures Pierre Gernelle, director of the FNEB (Burgundy Wine Merchants Federation). "Young people born in Beaune "As well as enthusiasts who come from the United States or Japan. Many career changes too. Not to mention the children of winemakers who want to prove themselves."

The boom in shared wineries

These enthusiasts make wine wherever they can: a corner of a cellar borrowed from a friend, a garage, or even a rented winery, an increasingly popular option. The first shared winery in Burgundy opened in Bligny in 2015. Since then, the concept has spread. For example, the Moreau Œnologie laboratories have been offering a winery rental service since 2022 in Chassagne-Montrachet with about ten spaces. “There was a real demand from these small businesses that can’t afford a €1,000,000 winery. We wanted to do something,” explains Richard Angonin, one of the winemakers in charge of the facility. “They rent space and can use shared equipment: pumps, presses… The concept has existed for a long time in the United States; we almost wonder why it didn’t develop sooner in France.” Indeed, “Les Pépites” is now fully booked, with a waiting list.

While this minimalist economic model is flourishing, it's difficult to quantify it accurately. "The phenomenon is inherently difficult to grasp. But it's far from insignificant. We saw many of these structures emerge in the late 2010s, with an explosion starting in 2020," emphasizes Manoel Bouchet, president of the economic commission of the BIVB .

Why this phenomenon? Production costs in Burgundy seem to play a major role. "Given the immense barrier that land prices are in Burgundy today, the only solution is often to take on a négociant business, buying grapes to make wine," explains Pierre Gernelle, director of the FNEB (Burgundy Wine Merchants Federation). This is referred to as micro-merchant trading. Others, who were keen to own their own vineyards, invested in the lesser-known appellations. "In particular, Burgundy or Hautes-Côtes, also..." villages as Auxey-Duresses Or Saint-Romain "This is also great news for these appellations, which see it as a new lease of life," notes Édouard Konczewski, co-founder of the distributor Golden Coast, in Beaune .

Projects of varying degrees of seriousness

But explaining production costs alone isn't enough. For these types of businesses to thrive, they need markets. And that's where the subject becomes fascinating. Nathan Drouhin The winemaker, who produced his first vintages in 2025, is still amazed: “In a market with more demand than supply, our small productions are in high demand. Especially in the current context, where distributors are looking for new products, hidden gems. My first wines aren't even bottled yet, and I've already met most of my future professional clients: friends and family mention me to distributors, they go to my Instagram, contact me, come to taste, and that's it. It's an incredible opportunity,” acknowledges the winemaker, who is preparing to market his 3,500 bottles in… about ten different countries.