Saint-Romain , Auxey-Duresses Monthelie: reliable choices!

Issue number 176 of Bourgogne Aujourd'hui is now on sale. Inside, you'll find various buying guides, including a focus on the Auxey-Duresses , Monthelie, and Saint-Romain appellations, where bargains abound. Read the full article published in Bourgogne Aujourd'hui below.
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In a context where Burgundy wines are experiencing unprecedented popularity, with stratospheric prices while offering undeniable quality, the succession of low-volume harvests, particularly in 2021, has accentuated this surge. This speculative bubble is particularly affecting the wines of the côte de Nuits , but also those from the coast of Beaune Much to the dismay of wine lovers. While Burgundy winemakers have reaped the rewards of the 2022 and 2023 vintages, this hasn't (yet) calmed the market's frenzy. Prices continue to climb, and enthusiasts seeking affordable wines are struggling to find what they're looking for. But in the shadow of the prestigious appellations, which have seen an inexorable price surge in recent years, a few vineyards like Saint-Romain , Auxey-Duresses And Monthelie are still resisting – for how much longer? – this speculative frenzy. This tasting of more than 130 samples showed that these appellations can produce great Pinot Noirs and fresh Chardonnays. A boon for the wine lover frustrated at no longer being able to access the wines of their illustrious neighbors.
Yield management in 2022
Our tasting, which comes at just the right time for Burgundy enthusiasts, reveals a list of winners where the quality of the 2022 vintage, with its perfectly ripe grapes, is largely confirmed. Estates that managed their yields in the vineyard and avoided excessive oak aging have produced wines of exceptional quality. In 2021, volumes were low, with frost significantly reducing harvests by 30% for reds and 50% for whites. 2021 is considered a "winemaker's year." This cold vintage would not have reached the same level if volumes had been higher, and wine lovers should therefore remain vigilant given the uneven quality of the wines. In both colors, the most successful 2021s are fresh, beautifully refined, more classic, and less generous than the 2022 vintage. The gems we unearthed in these three appellations prove that it's still possible to discover very fine, delicious wines at accessible prices. appellation Saint Romain, small in size, proves to be great in the quality and precision of its Chardonnays. The 2022s are easy to drink and approach perfect balance, while the 2021s remain fresh and beautifully mineral. One can also discover some lovely reds, with depth and a touch of sweetness. The best cuvées, often refined by a touch of whole cluster fermentation, express a delicious fruitiness with very seductive floral notes that will delight lovers of precise and delicate wines.
The white wines of Auxey can compete with their "neighbors"
The vineyard of Auxey-Duresses , usually better known for its reds, shone during our tasting thanks to the purity of its Chardonnays. Well-made, the best cuvées, from areas close to the appellation Meursault can sometimes rival their prestigious neighbor. As for the reds, with their spicy and smoky notes, typical of this region, they also reveal high potential. The effects of climate change are beneficial to them, and the future belongs to them. In Monthelie, the reds dominate the discussions, with the 2022s asserting their power and impressing with their concentration. They possess the structure and energy of great Burgundy Pinot Noirs. The finest cuvées manage to combine ripeness and density, with fine tannins and without excessive extraction or oak. The Chardonnays are more supple and should be drunk sooner. Text: Gilles Trimaille Photography:

Auxey-Duresses Reds: 91.54 hectares (ha), including 27.11 Premier Cru vineyards. Whites: 49.36 ha, including 3.47 Premier Cru vineyards. 9 Premier Cru vineyards.
Monthelie Reds: 109.65 ha, including 34.52 ha of Premier Cru vineyards. Whites: 18.11 ha, including 2.11 ha of Premier Cru vineyards. 16 Premier Cru vineyards. Saint Romain Whites: 69.51 hectares (ha). Reds: 38.04 ha. No premier cru .

Christophe TUPINIER

Rédacteur en chef des dégustations