Château de Fuissé (Mâconnais): "Maintaining freshness in wines has become a challenge"

Q: Bénédicte, you have arrived at domaine in 1996. And you, Antoine, in 2003. Two dates close together, but in terms of typicity, there is a world of difference between these two vintages!

Bénédicte Vincent: Indeed, 1996 was a good, but typical, harvest, whereas 2003 shattered all our expectations! After that scorching season, we started the harvest on August 26th. It was unprecedented. What's more, that year was the year we built our new winery. At the end of August, there was still no electricity, and we managed without it for the start of the harvest…

Antoine Vincent: I can confirm that 2003 was very special. For a first vintage, I certainly wasn't bored! The very generous wines are proof of that .

Q: This climate disruption particularly affects the Mâconnais region, the southern outpost of Burgundy. How does it Château Has de Fuissé adapted? Will he be able to continue doing so?

AV: The vines bud earlier, exposing us to the risk of frost. On the most vulnerable plots, late pruning can help, but it remains unpredictable compared to Chablis. Furthermore, the grapes ripen more quickly, especially as harvest time approaches. Maintaining freshness has become crucial.

BV: Especially since this is a major concern for consumers. For now, we have the capacity to adapt. First, by harvesting earlier. But not too early; we mustn't confuse freshness with greenness! And in winemaking, we can block some of the malolactic fermentation to preserve acidity. This way, we achieve beautiful balances.

Q: The typicality of pouilly-fuissé Is she safe?

BV: I think so, at least that's the opinion of our customers, who come to us looking for that balance of freshness and richness typical of the... appellation Some even tell us they appreciate this "lost roundness" found in other sectors, where the trend for minerality may have lost some consumers.

AV: The château He never played the fashion card; he always remained true to his fundamentals.

Q: Alongside this climate adaptation, today's consumers seem increasingly discerning about environmental considerations. Is this a good thing? Or rather an additional challenge?

AV: Indeed, we're seeing more curiosity from consumers, especially since modern media cover more technical topics. This inevitably has an impact on our practices. But respect for the environment is part of a broader philosophy. Beyond the image of the domaine The safety of the employees is at stake, as well as the quality of the wine.

BV: This requirement goes beyond consumers. The recognition of Premier Cru wines is a good example: for the first time, the specifications included an environmental requirement, namely the prohibition of chemical weed control.

Q: Adapting to the climate, respecting environmental standards… Is it economically sustainable?

BV: It's difficult. Beyond the investment in equipment, it requires more manpower. And this increase in costs goes hand in hand with a decrease in yields: among the last four vintages, we've had three small harvests…

Q: So the increase in bottle prices seen in recent years was inevitable?

AV: The wine shortage, coupled with the growing demand for white Burgundy, has led to a mechanical price increase, particularly in the bulk wine market and consequently for estate wines, which is beyond our control. However, we have always been mindful of the limits that must not be crossed in the market. Some parts of Burgundy, where wines are scarcer, have undoubtedly been less judicious!

Q: In the case of Pouilly-Fuissé Did the arrival of the first vintages in 2020 also affect prices?

BV: I don't think so: it's about recognizing these Premier Cru vineyards, not creating new ones. These plots were already valued.

Q: Has this new feature been beneficial in any other way?

AV: What we do know is that this has helped to put a new spotlight on our appellation The consumer is gradually making the connection between all the Premier Cru wines of Burgundy, from Chablis has Pouilly-Fuissé , whereas he had a slight tendency to stop at Rully , Mercurey Or Montagny .

Q: Has this increased visibility been accompanied by a rise in the value of the land?

BV: There has indeed been an increase in land value, but the reasons are multiple. I'm thinking in particular of the appeal of the Mâconnais region for winegrowers from northern Burgundy, who are experiencing soaring land prices in their own region. Just think, at one time, the Côte-d'Or didn't even put us on the map of Burgundy! (laughs).

Q: Is this a good thing?

BV: Yes and no. On the one hand, the families from Côte-d'Or present here, like Jadot , Drouhin Leflaive, or Comtes Lafon, produce very high-quality wines, which contribute to the prestige of the appellation , particularly for export. The risk is that the price of plots will continue to rise, as it is already becoming disconnected from the value of the work involved. The winemaking families are still there, but there is some apprehension regarding the possibility of investing in these properties.

Q: And to pass it on?

BV: That's also a concern. A reasonable value contributes to a successful transfer. But in any case, it's difficult. Especially with large families. My father had two older sisters. Vincent and I are also the youngest. If the domaine The fact that it was possible to pass on this message each time means that we received good advice and that everyone played their part. It's never a given.

Photographs: Thierry Gaudillère

The tasting

Pouilly-Fuissé Premier Cru Le Clos Monopoly 2020

Record for precocity: the château begins its harvest on August 25th. Rather demonstrative, the cuvée "lighthouse" of the château It stands out for its great maturity coupled with preserved acidity. The fruit bursts onto the nose, vibrant, enhanced with butter and almond puree. A pastry-like aroma leads to a smooth yet very fresh palate, revealing subtle herbaceous nuances (fennel, mint, etc.). The finish is powerfully saline.

Pouilly-Fuissé THE Clos monopoly 2015

A vintage renowned for its sun-drenched, mature wines, and this one certainly lives up to that reputation. The intense color has evolved to a straw gold. The nose displays some tertiary aromas, evoking baked apple, butter, and candied lemon. On the palate, salinity is evident from the first sip, followed by richness and breadth that fill the mouth, not without a touch of tension. A delightful wine to enjoy now.

Pouilly-Fuissé THE Clos monopoly 2014

The first "cold" vintage of this vertical tasting! "It's a wine I love for its minerality and freshness. It's a return to classicism," says Bénédicte Vincent. Its very fresh nose evokes crisp pear. The fruitiness is preserved throughout, with added menthol notes. A touch of roundness gives it balance. This wine is perfectly preserved and harmonious: it can still be aged.

Pouilly-Fuissé old vines 2010

A challenging vintage in the vineyards, but the result is finesse and balance. For the first time, the domaine uses technical (corkless) stoppers to preserve the freshness of its wines. cuvée It needs a little aeration to reveal itself. Patience is rewarded: elegant nuances of shades and hazelnuts are carried by a fresh and harmonious texture. A beautiful classic.

Pouilly-Fuissé old vines 2003

The heatwave took its toll on the grapes, resulting in a sun-drenched, concentrated juice. This nectar offers a complex and evolved aroma of fresh walnut, immortelle, ground coffee, and strawberry tree. The palate is rich and smooth, punctuated by delicate bitterness, with a subtle salinity this time. Yet it's not heavy at all. A true original! But a delight nonetheless…

Pouilly-Fuissé Head of Cuvée 1996

“A classic vintage, with a healthy harvest,” recalls Bénédicte. The magnificent nose reveals a harmonious evolution, dominated by buttery notes, with a fresh, saline base punctuated by hints of pepper. blanc and juniper. This is a balanced wine, which has aged gracefully, and is still at its peak.

Pouilly-Fuissé Les Combettes 1994

Bénédicte Vincent took a bottle from her father's cellar, and we thank her for it! The wine shines with a still youthful brilliance. On the nose, one perceives the undergrowth, then, after aeration, butter and lemon zest. After a direct attack, the palate reveals a beautiful structure, fleshiness, and a powerful salinity. The energy is overflowing, and the length is truly delightful. A magnificent surprise! Today, this plot is not among the Premier Crus due to its northern exposure.

Clément Lhôte

Journalist