Hokkaido: Discovering the Burgundy vineyards

Burgundy and Hokkaido, two wine regions separated by 9,000 kilometers but united by the same ambitions. A Japanese delegation on an official three-day visit discovered the strengths of the Burgundy vineyards. The objective of this visit: to develop viticulture on the island of Hokkaido. From the Cité des Vins (Wine City) of Beaune At Domaine de Montille, to Volnay The delegation came to draw on the expertise at the heart of the vineyard.

The morning began at the Cité des Climats et Vins de Bourgogne, where the delegation, composed of members of the Hokkaido Assembly and Yuri Tanabe, president of the “SAKURA” Japan Women's Wine Awards, was welcomed by Sylvain Naulin, director general of the BIVB The latter presented the basics of Burgundy wine production as well as the missions of the BIVB (communication, tourism, promotion, etc.). A moment for listening and exchange for Hokkaidō, the leading Japanese region in cultivated area (492.2 hectares), which seeks to structure its sector and strengthen its brand image on a global scale.

Ishiguro Kaori (founder and president of WINE no KAORI) and Manon Dumait (French Sales Manager of domaine De Montille) during the tasting of the vintages of domaine .

A wine bridge between East and West

In the afternoon, the delegation went to Volnay , At Domaine de Montille, already well-known in Japan… and in Hokkaido in particular. In 2018, the domaine Bourguignon has indeed acquired 38 hectares in the Hakodate region with grape varieties pinot noir And chardonnay contributing to the growth of local viticulture. Guided by Manon Dumait, the French Sales Manager of domaine The delegation was able to discover the former winery, which now serves as offices and a tasting room upstairs. During a tasting of 8 wines from the domaine (5 white, 3 red), the members of the Assembly were able to exchange views on the practices of vinification and discuss common challenges: climate change, biodynamics, viticultural techniques… Following the tasting, members were able to speak with Etienne de Montille (via video conference, as he is currently in the United States). He outlined three major challenges for viticulture in Hokkaido.

First, the local climate, characterized by high humidity, limited sunshine, and significant snowfall, complicates vine cultivation and increases susceptibility to disease. Furthermore, certain practices permitted in European organic viticulture, such as the use of pheromones, remain prohibited in Japan, hindering the transition to more sustainable production. He is therefore working with INRA (the French National Institute for Agricultural Research) and Japanese nursery growers to adapt grape varieties to the local climate.

Furthermore, even though the Hokkaido government supports the creation of "wineries", Etienne de Montille emphasizes that the industry needs to provide more support to young winemakers, particularly through training and vineyard expansion, because the small size of the plantations and low yields limit the supply of grapes and cause a rise in prices.

Finally, the development of wine tourism represents an essential lever for promoting local wines: welcoming visitors via tasting areas, on-site catering with views of the vineyards, and the provision of accommodation help to build customer loyalty and promote Hokkaido viticulture.

Etienne de Montille with Mr. Yano (General Manager) and Mr. Ko (Technical Director) in their vineyards in Hokkaido. © Domaine de Montille.

De Montille: of Volnay in Hakodate

Established under the name "De Montille & Hokkaidō", the project began to take shape in 2016, with the first plantings in 2019. The grape varieties of Pinot Noir And Chardonnay are cultivated using methods inspired by Burgundy, but adapted to the Japanese context.

The project goes beyond simply producing wine in Japan; it aims to forge a link between Burgundian tradition and Japanese dynamism. Through a Franco-Japanese team, De Montille & Hokkaidō is focusing on knowledge transfer: sharing Burgundian expertise while also integrating local knowledge about soils, climate, and practices. This is still a long process, requiring ongoing efforts, particularly to address climate change, introduce sustainable agricultural technologies, strengthen cooperation between academic, administrative, and industrial sectors, and enhance brand awareness.

Morgane AIGU

Journalist (part-time)