ENCOUNTER
Pierre Bolze
Vendanges 2026
BUYING GUIDESAppellation Phare : AOC régionales
Appellation : Gevrey-Chambertin
DOMAINE EDITOR'S PICK
Christian Moreau et fils
ESTATE AND HOUSES
Louis Jadot
GASTRONOMY
Le Castel de Tres Girard
NOTEBOOK BEAUJOLAIS
BUYING GUIDES
GASTRONOMY
In the kitchen with Stéphane Derbord
GOOD ADDRESSES
Pierre Renauld - Jérôme Fanouillere
Volnay villages and premier crus
Mason
Jérôme Galeyrand
Transmission
The Quay (Tournus – 71)
Le Cerisier (Tournon – 07)
L'Écume Gourmande in Cercié
Overall, the 2023 Meursaults and Meursaults Premier Crus presented at our tasting lived up to their worldwide reputation. village of origin. But the flattering statistics mask significant disparities in the quality of the wines.
Let's start with a quick overview of the vintage. 2023 will be remembered as a hot and sunny year, marked in particular by two heat waves, the first at the end of July and the second, which lasted more than ten days, at the end of August and beginning of September. Patrick Essa (Domaine Buisson-Chalres) describes the vintage: "After a very generous grape yield, the growing season proceeded without too many problems related to disease, but the vineyards in Meursault the surrounding area were hit by a fierce hailstorm that caused us to lose at least 20 to 25% of our harvest in the best areas." Other winegrowers we met seem to have suffered less from this storm at the end of July. Vincent Bouzereau would gladly sign up for such a successful vintage every year: "For me, 2023 is an exceptional vintage, rich and sunny, but with depth." The winemaker, like others among his neighbors, was little affected by the hail. He claims reasonable yields of fifty to fifty-five hectoliters per hectare, while Domaine Buisson-Charles, which was aiming for forty-eight hectoliters, had to settle for forty hectoliters per hectare!
However, not everyone has been so reasonable. Some estates seem to have been overwhelmed by the generosity of the year, with 2023 remaining to date the most productive vintage ever recorded in Burgundy! The excess volume— chardonnay tolerates slightly better than Pinot Noir, but only to a certain extent—has produced diluted, hollow wines that are unworthy of their terroirs of origin. Added to this are the choices made by each domaine in terms of cultivation practices (organic or not), vinification and above all, harvest dates. In Meursault, where the debate on the maturity of whites began, the question more relevant than ever. "Between the first and last snip of the secateurs in the village, sometimes more than four weeks pass," says one winemaker. Domaine Buisson-Charles, renowned for its late harvest practices, believes that "grapes harvested between September 14 and 21 are fresher, juicier, and better balanced than those picked earlier."
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